Amakuru n'Itangazamakuru

Sid Vicious ntabwo azigera yemera agaciro imyenda ye ishaje ifite agaciro kandi ko abiganano bazajya bakora ibishoboka byose ngo babihimbire.
Ntabwo hashize igihe kinini, umuhanga mu by'amateka y’umuco wa pop ukomoka mu mujyi wa Londres, Paul Gorman, umwanditsi w’Ubuzima n’ibihe bya Malcolm McLaren: A Biography, na cyamunara ya Rock Fashion Paul Gorman baguze igice cya Marr.Ishati ya Malcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries label, ahagana 1977, kugirango isuzumwe.
Yakozwe muri muslin kandi igaragaramo igishushanyo mbonera cyahise kimenyekana n'umuhanzi Jamie Reid kubera amaboko ya Pistolet Yigitsina "Anarchy in UK".
Niba ari ukuri, izazana igiciro cyiza muri cyamunara.Mu cyamunara ya Bonhams muri Gicurasi, ishati ya parasute ya Bwana McLaren na Madamu Westwood yagurishijwe $ 6,660, hamwe na swater idasanzwe yumukara numutuku mohair yashushanyijeho igihanga kandi crossbones na "Pistolet Igitsina" Nta Kazoza "Lyrics" igurishwa $ 8.896.
Icyakora, Bwana Gorman ntiyigeze yemera ko ishati yasuzumaga ari yo nyirayo yavuze.
Bwana Gorman ati: "Umuyisilamu yarashaje ahantu hamwe." Ariko ahandi, umwenda wari ukiri mushya cyane.Irangi ntabwo ryari ryiza mu myaka ya za 70 kandi ntiryakwirakwiriye mu mwenda. ”Abajijwe ibijyanye n'iki cyemezo, umugurisha yakuye icyo gice mu nzu yatejwe cyamunara avuga ko cyagurishijwe ku giti cye. ”Gorman yagize ati:“ Hariho ishati imwe imwe gusa mu cyegeranyo cy'ingoro z'umurage, kandi ndatekereza ko na byo bikemangwa. ”
Murakaza neza ku isi idasanzwe kandi yunguka abapanki b'impimbano.Mu myaka 30 ishize, witwaza ko wakozwe n'intoki z'umwimerere zirimo S-na-M n'ibishushanyo byanduye, gukata udushya n'imishumi, uburyo bw'ikirenga bwa gisirikare, tweeds na latex - Sid Vicious and bagenzi be muri Anarchy Icyamamare mugihe cyibitekerezo - cyahindutse inganda ziterambere.
Steven Philip, ushinzwe ububiko bw'imyambarire, umukorikori akaba n'umujyanama, yagize ati: “Buri kwezi mbona imeri nyinshi mbabaza niba hari ikintu gifatika.” Ntabwo nzabigiramo uruhare.Abantu bagura zahabu yabapfu.Buri gihe hariho impimbano 500 kuri imwe. ”
Mu gihe cy'igice cy'ikinyejana, Bwana McLaren na Madamu Westwood bafunguye butike yabo y’umuco, Reka Itare, kuri 430 King's Road, London. Ubwo bubiko, ubu buzwi ku izina rya Worlds End, niho havuka imyambarire yo mu muhanda. Ba nyirayo ni abashushanya babisobanuye abapanki.
Mu myaka 10 yakurikiyeho, iduka ryahinduwe mu mibonano mpuzabitsina no mu mibonano mpuzabitsina, ryerekana isura n'amajwi byagize ingaruka zikomeye ku buryo byakusanyirizwaga hamwe. ”Ibintu bimwe ni bike cyane kubera ibintu byinshi.”, Alexander Fury, umwanditsi ya “Vivienne Westwood Catwalk.” "Igihe cyabo cyo gukora ni gito, imyenda ihenze, kandi abantu bakunda kugura no kuyambara kugeza igihe batandukaniye."
Umuyobozi w’ubuhanzi wa Dior na Fendi, Kim Jones, afite ibikorwa byinshi byumwimerere kandi yizera ko “Westwood na McLaren bakoze igishushanyo mbonera cy’imyenda igezweho.Bari aberekwa. ”
Inzu ndangamurage nyinshi nazo zegeranya ibyo bintu.Michael Costiff, umusabane, uwashushanyaga imbere akaba n'umuyobozi ushinzwe ububiko bw’isi ku bubiko bw’isoko rya Dover Street, yari umukiriya wa mbere wa Bwana McLaren na Madamu Westwood. Imyambarire 178 yakoranye n’umugore we Gerlinde, ubu bari mu cyegeranyo cy’ingoro ndangamurage ya Victoria na Albert, yaguze icyegeranyo cya Mr Costiff mu 2002 ku giciro cya 42.500 mu kigega cy’igihugu gishinzwe gukusanya ibihangano.
Agaciro ka vintage McLaren na Westwood bituma baba intego yibisambo byimyambarire.Ku rwego rugaragara cyane, kopi iraboneka kumurongo kandi igurishwa muburyo butaziguye kandi bihendutse, nta buriganya - gusa igishushanyo kimenyerewe kuri t-shirt yoroshye.
Paul Stolper, umunyamerika ukomoka mu mujyi wa Londres, ufite icyegeranyo kinini cy’ibikorwa by’abapanki ubu kiri mu nzu ndangamurage y’ubuhanzi ya Metropolitan. ”Ishusho cyangwa ebyiri zo mu gihe runaka, nka Che Guevara cyangwa Marilyn, birangira kwanduzwa binyuze mumico yacu.Pistoletike y'Igitsina isobanura ibihe, bityo amashusho ahora asubirwamo. ”
Noneho hariho impimbano zigaragara cyane, nkimbuto zihenze za t-shirt ya Loom yerekana Mickey Mouse wabambwe, cyangwa ikabutura y’ubucakara ya “SEX y'umwimerere” ya $ 190 yo mu iduka rya robot yo mu iduka i Tokiyo byoroshye kumenyekana nk’umwimerere, Kubera umwenda mushya no kuba ubu buryo butarigeze bukorwa mu myaka ya za 70. Isoko ry’Ubuyapani ryuzuyemo impimbano.
Umwaka ushize, Bwana Gorman yasanze umwenda witwa “Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt” kuri eBay mu Bwongereza, yaguze nk'inyigo y'urubanza ku £ 100 (hafi $ 139).
Ati: "Ni urugero rushimishije rwo kwigana." Ntabwo byigeze bibaho.Ariko hiyongereyeho interuro ya 'Kurimbuka' hamwe nigitero cyo kugerageza gukoresha imiterere yikarito ikunzwe cyane yerekanwe muburyo butandukanye n’umuco byayoboye inzira ya McLaren na Westwood.Nkoresha umunyamwuga Icapa ryemeje ko wino igezweho, kimwe no kudoda T-shirt. ”
Umupfakazi wa Bwana McLaren, Young Kim, yakoze cyane mu myaka yashize kugira ngo abungabunge umurage we n'umurage. Ati: "Nagiye mu nzu ndangamurage ya Metropolitan mu 2013 kugira ngo ndebe icyegeranyo cyabo." Madamu King yagize ati: "Natangajwe no kumenya ko benshi muri bo bari impimbano.Imyenda y'umwimerere yari nto.Malcolm yatumye bamuhuza na Vivienne.Imyenda myinshi kuri Met yari nini kandi ihuye n'ababanjirije uyu munsi. ”
Hariho ibindi bimenyetso. ”Bafite ipantaro ya tweed n'ipantaro y'uruhu, ni gake kandi ni ukuri.” Madamu King yagize ati.Kudoda biri hejuru yumukandara, ntabwo imbere, nkuko byaba kumyenda ikozwe neza.Kandi D-impeta ni shyashya. ”
Ibikorwa mu imurikagurisha ryakozwe na Met 2013 “Punk: Kuva mu kajagari kugera kuri Haute Couture” byakuruye ibitekerezo nyuma y’uko Madamu King na Bwana Gorman bagize icyo bavuga ku mugaragaro ku bivugwa ko ari impimbano ndetse n’ibintu byinshi bidahuye.
Ariko hariho ibibazo bijyanye numurimo wari winjiye mungoro ndangamurage hashize imyaka umunani.Urugero harimo ikositimu y'ubucakara yagaragaye cyane mu gitaramo cyiswe “Anglomania” mu 2006, cyitiriwe umucuruzi w’ibicuruzwa bya kera by’i Londere witwa Simon Easton, na vintage Westwood na sosiyete ikodesha ya McLaren Punk. Icyegeranyo cya Pistol, cyatangaga abanditsi n’abakora amafilime, ndetse n’2003, Umunyayiraki Bwana Stone na mugenzi we w’ubucuruzi, Gerald Bowey, bashinze inzu ndangamurage ku rubuga rwa interineti.Mu gihe runaka, inzu ndangamurage yahagaritse gutondekanya amakositimu mu rwego rwo gukusanya.
Umuyobozi mukuru ushinzwe ishuri ry’imyambarire ya Metropolitan, Andrew Bolton yagize ati: “Muri 2015, ibice bibiri bya McLaren-Westwood mu cyegeranyo cyacu byariyemeje ko ari impimbano.” Ibikorwa byaje gusubizwa.Ubushakashatsi bwacu muri uru rwego burakomeje. ”
Bwana Gorman yohereje Bwana Bolton imeri nyinshi aho yavugaga ko indi mirimo yo muri uruhererekane yagize ibibazo, ariko Bwana Gorman yavuze ko Bwana Bolton atakimusubiza. Umuvugizi w'ikigo cy’imyambarire yavuze ko ibyo bice byagenzuwe n’inzobere inshuro zirenze imwe.Bwana Bolton yanze gutanga ibisobanuro by'inyongera kuriyi ngingo.
Bwana Easton, utagize icyo atangaza kuri iyi ngingo, kuri email yavuze ko Bwana Bowie amuvugira, ariko izina rye ntirizibagirana mu mugani w'impimbano. Mu myaka yashize, urubuga rwe rwa PunkPistol.com rwabitswe mu 2008, ni bifatwa na benshi nkibikoresho byizewe byububiko kubishushanyo mbonera bya McLaren na Westwood.
Icyakora, Bwana Bowie yavuze ko nubwo bashyizeho umwete kugira ngo hemezwe icyo cyegeranyo, ati: "uburyo butemewe uburyo imyenda yatekerejwe mbere, ikabyara kandi ikabyara nyuma yababujije.Uyu munsi, ndetse no ku rutonde rwa cyamunara urutonde, inyemezabwishyu ndetse rimwe na rimwe bivuye ku cyemezo cya Westwood, iyi myenda iracyavuguruzanya. ”
Ku ya 9 Nzeri 2008, Bwana McLaren yamenyeshejwe bwa mbere ingano y’uburiganya bumukikije na Madamu Westwood binyuze kuri imeri itazwi yoherejwe na Bwana Gorman kuri iyi ngingo kandi yemejwe na Madamu Kim.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
Imeri yagize iti: "Nyuma ya raporo, abapolisi bagabye igitero ku ngo muri Croydon na Eastbourne, aho basanze imizingo y'ibirango by'abigaragambyaga." Ariko abo bantu bashya ni bande?Ikaze Bwana Grant Howard na Bwana Lee Parker. ”
Umucamanza Susan Matthews yavuze ko Grant Champkins-Howard, ubu akaba ari DJ uzwi ku izina rya Grant Dale, na Lee Parker, umuyoboke w'amazi, baburanishijwe mu rukiko rwa Crown Crown Kingston muri Kamena 2010.Ni "abanyabinyoma ba kera" .Umutungo wabo wagabweho igitero mu 2008 na Metropolitan Arts and Antiquities Fraud Squad maze bafata ibicuruzwa bivugwa ko ari impimbano ya McLaren na Westwood hamwe n’ibikoresho bifitanye isano, ndetse n’ibicapo 120 by’impimbano bya Banksy.
Nyuma bombi bahamwe n'icyaha cyo kubeshya imirimo ya Banksy.Mr.McLaren, wenyine waremye imyenda yambere yimibonano mpuzabitsina na Seditionaries yiteguye gutanga ubuhamya, yasabwe gusuzuma ibintu byafashwe akerekana ibimenyetso byerekana ko iyo myenda ari impimbano: ingano idahwitse y’inyuguti zanditse, imyenda idahuye, gukoresha YKK aho gukoresha inkuba zanditseho inkuba. , ibishushanyo bitari byo bivanze no gusiga irangi ryera tee.
Madamu King yagize ati: "Yararakaye." Yumvaga ashishikajwe no kurinda no kurengera umurimo we.Yari afite agaciro kuri we. ”Nyuma y’ubufatanye hagati ya Bwana McLaren na Madamu Westwood bwahagaritswe mu 1984, habayeho kuva kera cyane hagati yabo bombi Amakimbirane ntiyigeze akemuka, kandi amakimbirane yateje icyuho abiganano.
Bwana Howard na Bwana Parker bakatiwe ibihano by'agateganyo mu rubanza rwa Banki, ariko urubanza rw'imyenda y'impimbano rwasibwe igihe Bwana McLaren yapfaga mu 2010 kuko yari umutangabuhamya w'ingenzi w'ubushinjacyaha muri urwo rwego.
Icyakora, biragaragara ko umuryango wa Madamu Westwood ushobora kuba warashizeho cyangwa utabishaka mu ruganda rw’impimbano. ”Nakoze inyandiko nke ku bishushanyo mbonera bya mbere kugira ngo mbone amafaranga yo gutangiza Agent Provocateur,” ibi bikaba byavuzwe na Joe Corré, umuhungu wa Bwana McLaren na Madamu. . Westwood, wafunguye imyenda y'imbere mu bucuruzi 1994.
Bwana Corré yagize ati: "Twongeye gukora T-shirt y'amagufwa y'inkoko hamwe na T-shirt ya 'Venus'." . ”Mbere yibi bisobanuro birambuye kandi bihenze, kubyara imirimo byagarukiraga gusa kuri silikrike igaragara kuri T-shati nyinshi Icapa, umuvuduko wo gukora urihuta, kandi igiciro gihenze cyane.
Bwana Corré yavuze ko Vivienne Westwood yemereye kubyara.Bwana.McLaren yararakaye. Muri imeri yo ku ya 14 Ukwakira 2008 yandikiye itsinda ririmo umunyamakuru Steven Daly, Bwana McLaren yaranditse ati: “Ninde wabemereye kubikora?Nabwiye Joe guhagarika ako kanya nkamwandikira .Ndarakaye. ”
Bwana Corré, uherutse kuba umuyobozi wa Fondasiyo ya Vivienne, “akoresha uburenganzira bw'umurimo we mu buryo bw'impuhwe mu gushaka amafaranga ku mpamvu zitandukanye.”Yavuze ko azashakisha uburyo bwo “kurangiza” impimbano. Madamu King akomeje guharanira umurage wa Bwana McLaren kandi yizera ko azahanagurwa mu mateka ye.
Bwana Easton na Bwana Bowey ubucuruzi bwa pistolet bukomeje kugurisha ibikorwa bya Madamu Westwood na Bwana McLaren babinyujije mu iduka rya Etsy SeditionariesInTheUK, inyinshi muri zo zikaba zifite ibaruwa y’icyemezo cya Sosiyete Vivienne Westwood, yashyizweho umukono, yateguwe kandi ibikwa na Murray Blewett. Muri byo harimo amashati yometseho amakariso ya Peter Pan hamwe nudupapuro twa silike Karl Marx, hamwe namakoti ya Levi yahumetswe.
Interineti ntabwo ikaze nkamazu menshi yatezwa cyamunara, kandi ntabwo bari gutanga ibisobanuro kuriyi ngingo, ariko bakavuga ko bahagarariye imirimo gusa yerekana amasasu, ni ukuvuga amafoto ya nyirayo yambaye imyenda mu myaka ya za 70.
Bwana Gorman yagize ati: "Ni ngombwa kumva ko abantu benshi bahohotewe ari abahohotewe babishaka." Barashaka rwose kwizera ko bagize inkuru y'umwimerere.Nibyo imyambarire igamije, sibyo?Byose biterwa no kwifuza. ”