Amakuru n'Itangazamakuru

Urashaka rero kugura ikintu gishya, ariko ntushaka gutanga umusanzu mubiharuro biteye ubwoba ubona iyo Googling "ingaruka zibidukikije kumyambarire." Ukora iki?
Niba ushishikajwe no kuramba, birashoboka ko wigeze wumva verisiyo yaya magambo: "Irambye cyane ___ nicyo usanzwe ufite." Nukuri, ariko ntabwo buri gihe ari ingirakamaro, cyane cyane iyo Imyambarire: Imisusire igenda itera imbere, nubukungu, kandi urashaka gukomeza no gutunga ikintu gishya cyiza.Nyamara, inganda zerekana imideli zigomba kugenda gahoro. Nkuko bigaragazwa na raporo iherutse gukorwa na Bloomberg, imyambarire igizwe na 10 ku ijana byuka byangiza imyuka ya karuboni ku isi hamwe na kimwe cya gatanu cy’ibicuruzwa ngarukamwaka ku isi.
Ikintu cyiza gikurikiraho cyo kwambara imyenda usanzwe utunze nicyo uruganda rwimyambarire rwita "gukoresha ubwenge." Mubisanzwe duhuza igiciro kinini nubwiza buhanitse, ariko sibyo.
Umuguzi w'imyambarire Amanda Lee McCarty, wakira podcast ya Clotheshorse, amaze imyaka isaga 15 akora nk'umuguzi, cyane cyane mu bucuruzi bw’imyambarire yihuse - afite icyo yita “imyambarire yihuse” y’inganda imbere. Nyuma y’ubukungu bwa 2008, Yavuze ko abakiriya bifuzaga kugabanyirizwa, kandi niba abadandaza basanzwe batabitanze, Forever21 yarabikoze.
McCarty yavuze ko igisubizo ari ukugura ibintu biri hejuru hanyuma ugateganya kugurisha ibyinshi muri byo ku giciro - bivuze ko ibiciro byo gukora bigenda bigabanuka. ”Ako kanya, umwenda wabuze mu idirishya.” Ati: “Byose bifite ube mwiza. ”
McCarty yavuze ko imbaraga zinjiye mu nganda, ndetse zikagera no ku bicuruzwa by'imyambarire bihenze. Niyo mpamvu muri iki gihe, "gushora imari" bitoroshye nko kugura ikintu gihenze. Nubwo bimeze bityo, ntabwo abantu bose bashobora gukoresha amafaranga menshi ku mwenda, kandi nta nubwo ari benshi ibirango birambye bingana.Noneho, dukwiye gushaka iki? Nta gisubizo kimwe kiboneye, ariko hariho inzira ya miliyoni yo kuba nziza.
Hitamo fibre karemano-ipamba, imyenda, ubudodo, ubwoya, ikivuguto, nibindi - bizaramba cyane muri imyenda yawe. By'umwihariko, wasangaga silike yasanze ari umwenda uramba ukurikije igihe cyakoreshejwe, ugakurikirwa nubwoya. Ibyo ni bimwe kubera ko iyi myenda nayo ifite umwanya muremure hagati yo gukaraba, ifasha kugumya kumera neza.Imyenda karemano irashobora kwangirika kandi irashobora gukoreshwa mugihe yambarwa. umwaka.)
Erin Beatty washinze Rentrayage, yavuze ko akunda kubona ikivuguto na jute kuko ari ibihingwa byongera umusaruro. Akunda cyane cyane urumogi ruva mu bicuruzwa nka Jungmaven na For Days.
Kuri Rebecca Burgess, washinze akaba n’umuyobozi wa Fibershed idaharanira inyungu akaba n’umwanditsi wa Fibershed: Umuryango uharanira abahinzi, abaharanira imideli, n’abakora inganda z’ubukungu bushya bw’imyenda, ni ugushaka gutera inkunga abahinzi baho, cyane cyane imyenda ikozwe muri Amerika. Ati: "Ndashaka ubwoya 100 ku ijana cyangwa 100 ku ijana by'ipamba n'ibicuruzwa biva mu murima." Ati: "Aho ntuye muri Californiya, ipamba n'ubwoya ni fibre y'ibanze dukora. Nashyigikira fibre isanzwe iyo ari yo yose yihariye. ”
Hariho kandi urwego rwa fibre idafite plastike ariko nayo ntisanzwe rwose.Viscose ni fibre ikomoka kumiti yimiti yavuwe mumiti hamwe na sodium hydroxide na karubone disulfide.Hari ibibazo bimwe na bimwe bya viscose: Ukurikije Ibyiza kuriwe , inzira yo gukora viscose isesagura kandi yangiza ibidukikije, kandi umusaruro wa viscose nimpamvu yo gutema amashyamba.Nyamara, amaherezo arashobora kwangirika, nikintu cyiza.
Vuba aha, Eco Vero - fibre ya viscose ikoresheje uburyo bushinzwe kubungabunga ibidukikije kandi ntigire ingaruka mbi ku musaruro - yatangijwe - bityo rero harafatwa ingamba zo kunoza ikirenge cya karuboni yiyi fibre-synthique. (Noneho turasobanura igice cya sintetike.
Reba imyenda y'ibidukikije: Ibisobanuro birambuye ku musaruro wa fibre - hariho inzira nkeya kandi nkeya zirambye zo gukora fibre naturel nka pamba na silk, kimwe na fibre fibre fibre fibre.Urugero, umusaruro wubudodo wangiza haba mukurekura no kwica inzoka. . , hashyizweho ubundi buryo bushya bwimyenda ya plastike; kurugero, "uruhu rwibikomoka ku bimera" kuva kera byakozwe muri plastiki ikomoka kuri peteroli, ariko ibikoresho bishya nkimpu z ibihumyo nimpu yinanasi byerekana amasezerano akomeye.
Google ni inshuti yawe: Ntabwo ibirango byose bitanga ibisobanuro birambuye kuburyo imyenda ikorwa, ariko abakora imyenda bose basabwa gushyiramo ikirango cyimbere gisenya fibre yimyenda ku ijanisha. hanze ko ibirango byinshi - cyane cyane imideli yimyambarire yihuta - gutiza nkana ibirango byabo.Plastike ijya kumazina menshi, nibyiza rero kumagambo ya google utazi.
Niba duhinduye imitekerereze tukabona kugura ikariso yimyenda nkubwitange bwimyaka myinshi cyangwa ishoramari rikwiye, aho kuba ibyifuzo, birashoboka cyane ko tugumana ibyo tugura kandi tukambara ibyo dutunze.Nyuma yo gusuzuma imyitwarire yo kugura Caric avuga ko ashyira imbere imyenda imushimisha - harimo n'ibigenda. ”Niba koko uri muri iyi nzira kandi ukaba uzayambara kuva mu myaka ibiri uhereye ubu, ni byiza.” Ati: "Abantu basanga byinshi. yo kwishimisha mu myambaro. Ni ikintu dukora buri munsi kandi kigomba kuba cyiza. ”
Beatty yemera ko imyenda wambara rimwe cyangwa kabiri ari cyo kibazo: “Mu byukuri, ni ibihe bice bizasobanura isura yawe inshuro nyinshi?” Igice cyibyo ni ugutekereza uburyo bwo kwita kumyenda mbere yo kuyigura; kurugero, birashoboka ko byumye gusa? Niba nta karere kangiza ibidukikije byangiza ibidukikije mukarere kawe, ntibishobora kumvikana kugura ibicuruzwa.
Kuri McCarty, aho kugura ku bushake, yafashe umwanya wo gutekereza uburyo n'aho icyo gice kizahurira mu myenda ye. ”Ntabwo uzatangazwa n’imyenda ikennye cyane, idashoboka ishobora guhita ikurwa mu buzima bwawe na siporo. ”
Mu gusoza igitabo cyitwa "Eaarth" cya Bill McKibben, kimwe mu bitabo byizewe nasomye ku kibazo cy’ikirere, yanzuye avuga ko, ahanini, ejo hazaza hacu hazaza ni ukugaruka ku buryo bw’ubukungu bw’akarere, buto. arabyemera: kuguma mu karere ni urufunguzo rwo guhaha mu buryo burambye. "Ndashaka gutera inkunga ubwanjye ubworozi bwanjye n'ubworozi bwanjye kuko nshaka kubona bagabanya gushingira ku bukungu bwoherezwa mu mahanga." Ati: "Ndashaka gushishikariza abahinzi kwitaho. ibidukikije byaho binyuze mu guhitamo kwanjye. ”
Abrima Erwiah - umwarimu, impuguke mu bijyanye n’imyambarire irambye akaba ari nawe washinze Studio 189 - afata inzira nk'iyi. Mugihe agura ibicuruzwa bikomeye birambye nka Eileen Fisher, umuvandimwe Vellies na Mara Hoffman, akunda gushakisha imishinga mito mu majyaruguru ya New York. Ati: "Nkunda ko ushobora kujyayo ukareba icyo bakora".
Akazi akora ubu kungukirwa nigihe cye cyo kwitanga muri Gana no kubana na bene wabo, ibyo bikaba byaramufashije gutekereza ku buryo agura. Guhuza kwe gukomeye n’inzobere mu myambaro byamufashije kumva uburyo ibintu byose kuva mu murima kugeza ku myenda bifitanye isano. ”Ahantu hamwe nka Gana hamwe nibintu byinshi byamaboko, uratahura uko bigenda mugihe utagikeneye ibintu byawe. ”
Iyo ikirango giharanira kumenya inkomoko nyayo yimyambarire yacyo no gukorera mu mucyo kubikorwa byayo, byerekana indangagaciro zikomeye.Niba ugura imbonankubone, Erwiah avuga ko ari byiza kubaza ibibazo bijyanye nimyitwarire myiza kandi irambye.Ibi ni bimwe muburyo bwiza bwo kwisuzuma ubwawe niba imyenda yabo ikwiye gushorwa. Nubwo ikirango kidafite ibisubizo byose, kubazwa birashobora kugutera guhindura ibyo - niba ari ubucuruzi buciriritse, amahirwe urimo kuvugana umuntu ufite uruhare runini mubikorwa byubucuruzi. Kubirango binini, niba abakozi babajijwe kenshi kubijyanye no kuramba, mugihe, barashobora kumenya ko ibyo aribyo byihutirwa byabakiriya kandi bagahindura. Mubyukuri, kugura ibintu byinshi bibera kumurongo.Ni iki? Caric yashakishaga ni ukumenya niba ikirango cyasuye inganda zacyo kandi niba zarashyize amakuru kurubuga rwabo zerekana uko bahemba abakozi babo.Ntabwo bibabaza kohereza imeri niba ufite ibibazo byinshi.
Gusubiramo ni rimwe mu magambo azwi cyane akoreshwa mu gusukura imyambarire yihuse. By'umwihariko polyester yongeye gukoreshwa irashobora kuba ikibazo.Ariko nk'uko Erwiah abivuga, byose ni ibishushanyo mbonera bifite intego. Avuga ingarigari kuri filozofiya. Ni byiza guhindura amacupa ya pulasitike imyenda ya siporo. , ariko bahindura iki nyuma yibyo? Birashoboka ko bigomba kuguma uko biri no gukomeza gukoreshwa igihe kirekire gishoboka; Erwiah yagize ati: "rimwe na rimwe ni byiza kutabihindura." Niba ari impu ebyiri, birashoboka ko ari ukuyikoresha no kuyiha ubuzima bwa kabiri, aho gushora imari myinshi mu guhanga ikindi kintu. Nta gisubizo kimwe kiboneye. ”
Igihe Beatty yahisemo gutangira gukodesha, yibanze ku gutunganya ibyo yari asanzwe afite, akoresheje imyenda ya vintage, imyenda yapfuye, n'ibindi bikoresho byari bimaze gukwirakwizwa - yahoraga ashakisha amabuye y'agaciro, nk'ayo T-shati imwe. Beatty yagize ati: "Kimwe mu bintu bibi cyane ku bidukikije ni aya ma t-shati yambaye imwe yakozwe muri iyi marato cyangwa ikindi kintu." Ubusanzwe, ushobora kubona amabara meza cyane. Turabatemye kandi basa neza. ” Amenshi muri aya ma shati ni ipamba-polyester ivanze, ariko kubera ko isanzweho, igomba kuzenguruka nkimyenda igihe kirekire gishoboka, Beatty agerageza kuyikoresha kuko idasaza vuba.Niba utagikeneye igice y'imyenda itunganijwe ku mubiri wawe, urashobora kuyizamura mu rugo rwawe. "Ndabona abantu bahindura amajipo mu mwenda."
Rimwe na rimwe, ntabwo buri gihe ubona imyitwarire yikirango cyangwa nibirimo fibre mugihe uguze ibintu byakoreshejwe.Nyamara, gutanga isura nshya kumyenda isanzwe ireremba kwisi kandi bikarangirira mumyanda ni amahitamo arambye.
Ndetse no mu maduka ya kabiri, hari uburyo bwo gusuzuma ubuziranenge kandi burambye, Caric yagize ati: "Bimwe mu bintu nshakisha ako kanya ni imyenda igororotse kandi idoda." Kuri denim, Caric avuga ibintu bibiri ugomba kwitondera: Byaciwe kuri selvedge, kandi imbere no hanze imbere birashushanyijeho kabiri. Izi ninzira zose zo gushimangira imyenda kumara igihe kirekire gishoboka mbere yo gukenera gusanwa.
Kugura umwenda bikubiyemo gufata inshingano zubuzima bwikintu - bivuze ko tumaze guca muri ibyo byose hanyuma tukagura rwose, tugomba kubyitaho neza. Cyane cyane nimyenda yubukorikori, uburyo bwo kumesa ni bigoye.Ni igitekerezo cyiza cyo gushora mumufuka wo kuyungurura kugirango uhagarike irekurwa rya microplastique muri sisitemu yamazi, kandi niba ufite ubushake bwo gukoresha bike kugirango ushireho, urashobora kugura akayunguruzo kumashini imesa.Niba ubishoboye. , irinde gukoresha icyuma rwose. "Mugihe ushidikanya, kwoza kandi wumuke. Ni ikintu cyiza ushobora gukora. ”Beatty.
McCarty arasaba kandi gusoma ikirango cyita kumyenda imbere. Umaze kumenyera ibimenyetso nibikoresho, uzatangira kumenya ibigomba gukama byumye nibikwiriye gukaraba intoki / ikirere cyumye.McCarty irasaba kandi kugura “Handy” ya Heloise. Igitabo cyo mu rugo "igitabo, akunze kubona ku maduka acuruza amafaranga ari munsi ya $ 5, kandi akiga uburyo bwibanze bwo gutobora, nko gusimbuza buto no gutobora umwobo.Kandi, menya igihe uri kure cyane; rimwe na rimwe, birakwiye gushora imari mubudozi.Nyuma yo guhindura umurongo wikoti rya vintage, McCarty yizera ko azayambara byibuze mumyaka 20 iri imbere.
Ubundi buryo bwo kuvugurura imyenda irangi cyangwa yambarwa: irangi. ”Beatty ati:" Ntuzigere usuzugura imbaraga z'irangi ry'umukara. "Iri ni irindi banga. Turabikora buri gihe. Ikora ibintu bitangaje. ”
Mugutanga imeri yawe, wemera kumagambo yacu n'amabwiriza yerekeye ubuzima bwite no kwakira itumanaho rya imeri kuri twe.
Iyi imeri izakoreshwa mu kwinjira ku mbuga zose za New York.Muhereza imeri yawe, wemera amategeko yacu na politiki y’ibanga no kwakira itumanaho rya imeri kuri twe.
Nkigice cya konte yawe, uzakira amakuru mashya hamwe nibisabwa kuva i New York kandi urashobora guhitamo umwanya uwariwo wose.
Iyi imeri izakoreshwa mu kwinjira ku mbuga zose za New York.Muhereza imeri yawe, wemera amategeko yacu na politiki y’ibanga no kwakira itumanaho rya imeri kuri twe.
Nkigice cya konte yawe, uzakira amakuru mashya hamwe nibisabwa kuva i New York kandi urashobora guhitamo umwanya uwariwo wose.